Sleeping The Ritz Eating Hotel Costes Plaza Paris Vendome Park Hyatt Vendome L'Avenue Natacha Dave Cafe Marly PARIS, the birthplace of couture, is the grand finale to the month-long fashion extravaganza known as "the shows".

Among the designers showing this week are Brits such as Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney, and long-established labels such as Chanel, Louis Vuitton (under Marc Jacobs), Chloe (under Phoebe Philo), Dior (under John Galliano) and YSL. Keep an eye out for dedicated followers of fashion such as Gwyneth Paltrow and Kylie Minogue, who loves Chanel.

Expect to see US Vogue editor Anna Wintour, Joan Burstein of Browns, Gilles Bensimon of US Elle and the fashion teams from Vanity Fair and US Vogue sashaying through these gilded doors.

15 place Vendome (00 33 1 43 16 30 70, www.ritzparis.com) Both Gaia Geddes of Harpers Queen and stylist Katie Grand stay here. "Costes is very sexy," says Geddes. All those not embarking on dangerous liaisons will be found in the bar or the restaurant, where the mashed potato (a favourite of designer Alice Temperley) is legendary.

239 rue St Honore (00 33 1 42 44 50 00, www.hotelcostes.com) Designed by Ed Tuttle, this hotel has a gorgeous basement spa, as well as stylish and comfortable rooms where the team from Wallpaper* will stay.

5 rue de la Paix (00 33 1 58 71 12 34, www.paris.vendome.hyatt.com) British Vogue's base. "It's a new-ish, quiet, modern hotel around the corner from [design store] Colette," says Harriet Quick, Vogue's fashion features editor. "There's a great steam room in the basement."

4 rue du Mont Thabor (00 33 1 40 20 20 00, www.plazaparisvendome.com) As part of the Costes brothers' group, L'Avenue is so "fashion" that it's practically a haute couture canteen for Dior. "Linda Evangelista and Harvey Weinstein were eating last time I was there," says Geddes.

41 avenue Montaigne (00 33 1 40 70 14 91) American in Paris Marc Jacobs is a great fan of this small bistro: "I always have a fun time," he says.

17 bis rue Campagne-Premiere (00 33 1 43 20 79 27) John Galliano, Gisele, Naomi Campbell, Tom Ford, Karl Lagerfeld and Stella McCartney love this Chinese restaurant. 12 rue de Richelieu (00 33 1 42 61 49 48) "I like eating at Cafe Marly, overlooking the Louvre," says Louise Chunn, editor of In Style. "It has simple food, a gorgeous interior and it's buzzing." It is run by the same team as Georges, which has amazing views at the top of Pompidou Centre.

Parties Others worth a nibble Bar du Plaza Athenee Angelina Palais du Louvre (00 33 1 49 26 06 60) Georges, 6th Floor, Centre Pompidou, (00 33 1 44 78 47 99) "Chez Georges is lovely and traditional," says Harriet Quick. She also recommends: Le Martel, "a relaxed restaurant/bar"; Brasserie Flo, "a wonderful, old, art nouveau brasserie"; and Cafe de Flore.

Chez Georges, 1 rue du Mail (00 33 1 42 60 07 11) Le Martel, 3 rue Martel (00 33 1 47 70 67 56) Brasserie Flo, 7 Cour de Petites- Ecuries (00 33 1 47 70 13 59) Cafe de Flore, 172 bd St-Germain (00 33 1 45 48 55 26) On 3 March, this bar is throwing a big party for its third birthday.

Everyone who's anyone in Paris fashion will be invited. John Galliano and Karl Lagerfeld have confirmed.

25 avenue Montaigne (00 33 1 53 67 66 00, www.plaza-athenee- paris.com) Originally Rumpelmeyer's, Angelina

Get the look Pop In Colette Kenzo is a luscious tearoom serving the best hot chocolate in Paris. Joan Burstein of Browns is throwing a lunch there during fashion week.

226 rue de Rivoli (00 33 1 42 60 82 00) Ever since Christian Dior held an after-show party at this grungy club in the 11th, it has been a fashion week hangout.

105 rue Amelot (00 33 1 48 05 56 11) Parisians pay immaculate attention to detail. Accessories are everything: a silk scarf, ballet flats and a designer bag are priorities.

"By far the coolest shop," says David Hayes, deputy fashion editor of the Evening Standard. "Also try Maria Luisa, where you'll find a fantastic selection of new designer talent."

Colette, 213 rue St-Honore (00 33 1 55 35 33 90) Maria Luisa, 2 rue Cambon (00 33 1 47 03 48 08) Kenzo's flagship store on rue du Pont Neuf is a must-see. It has a sushi bar in the basement, La Bulle beauty institute on the fourth floor and the hip Philipe Starck-designed Kong bar and restaurant on the roof.

1 rue du Pont Neuf (00 331 73 04 20 03) This bookshop, owned by Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld, is a minimalist space stocked with Lagerfeld's own publications and a

More must-haves Dary's Laduree This family-run antique jewellery shop is popular with French actresses and models.

362 rue St-Honore (00 33 1 42 60 95 23) Macaroons from Laduree are the perfect present. Head to the original store on rue Royale.

16 rue Royale (00 33 1 42 60 21 79) 2005. Harriet Quick will also be stocking up on candles at Diptyque, scent at Comme des Garcons and heading to Chloe and Pierre Hardy, "for some of the sexiest shoes in the world".

Balenciaga, Diptyque, selection of other favourites.

7 rue de Lille (00 33 1 42 92 03 58) Under the guidance of Nicolas Ghesquiere, Balenciaga is one of the hottest labels of 10 avenue George V (00 33 1 47 20 21 11, www.balenciaga.com) 34 bd St- Germain (00 33 1 43 26 45 27) Chloe, 54-56 rue du Faubourg St- Honore (00 33 1 44 94 33 00, www.chloe.com) Comme des Garcons Parfums, 23 pl du Marche St Honore (00 33 1 47 03 15 03) Pierre Hardy, 156 Galerie de Valois, Jardins du Palais Royal (00 33 1 42 60 59 75, www.pierrehardy.com)

(c)2005. Associated Newspapers Ltd.. Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company. All rights Reserved.